Ingredients, 2 min read
Understanding Your Skincare Labels
Demystifying what’s inside, from the INCI list to the tiny icons.
Published

Decoding the back of a skincare package can feel like trying to read a foreign language. Complex chemical terms and botanical Latin names make it difficult to know what you’re actually putting on your face.
However, regulations require skincare brands to list what’s inside, and knowing how to read that list is the best way to shop mindfully for your skin. Here is your quick guide to reading skincare labels like a pro.
1. Meet the INCI list
Ingredients are listed by their INCI names (the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), so the same ingredient carries the same name on every label.
The rule of order: Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. The top five to seven ingredients usually make up the vast majority of the product (often 80–90%). The first ingredient is almost always Aqua (water) or a botanical juice, which serves as the base.
The 1% rule: Once an ingredient’s concentration falls below 1%, the brand can list them in any order. This is where you’ll typically find preservatives, fragrances, and extracts, at the very bottom of the list.
2. Spotting the actives
“Actives” are the ingredients that target specific concerns (like dark spots or fine lines). Look for well-known actives near the top or middle of the INCI list, such as:
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): for barrier support and brightening.
- Salicylic Acid (BHA): for clearing pores.
- Hyaluronic Acid / Sodium Hyaluronate: for multi-depth hydration.
- Retinol: for signs of aging.
- Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): found in our Barrier Repair Cream and Calming Serum, a much-loved ingredient for comforting skin and supporting barrier repair.
- Centella Asiatica: the star soothing ingredient in our Calming Serum (more on centella), known for helping calm the look of redness.
3. Botanical names vs. chemicals
Don’t be scared by long, difficult-to-pronounce scientific names.
For example, on the label of our Calming Serum you will see Centella Asiatica, the botanical name for Tiger Grass, a plant long used in traditional skincare for its soothing properties. Similarly, Panthenol might sound clinical, but it is simply a provitamin that your skin readily absorbs, helping support its lipid barrier. On the flip side, some “chemicals,” like Sodium Hyaluronate (a form of Hyaluronic Acid), are close to what occurs naturally in the human body, and are gentle and hydrating.
4. The tiny icons that matter
- PAO (Period After Opening): Look for a tiny open-jar icon on the back of the package with a number inside (e.g. “6M” or “12M”). It shows how many months the product stays safe and effective after you open it. Natural, preservative-free formulas often have a shorter PAO.
- Cruelty-free / Leaping Bunny: Shows that the formula was never tested on animals.
Sources
- The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: a review. Purnamawati S. et al., Clinical Medicine & Research, 2017.
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Bylka W. et al., Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 2013.
Written for general information, not medical advice. For a skin condition, please see a dermatologist.
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